Dry fit the window unit into the opening by placing the sill of the window over the existing interior sill and tipping the window unit into the opening as shown above. You should have 1/8” to 1/4” between the opening and the new window frame. Remove the window unit from the opening and remove the balance covers and sash stops from the window (hung windows only) to expose the installation holes in the jambs. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pop these parts out of the frame, taking care not to damage them.
Run a continuous bead of good quality silicone caulking on the inside of the exterior stops on the sides and top of the opening; also run a bead on the outside of the wood stool of the old window.
Now, place the window back into the opening making certain it is centered side to side in the rough opening.
Install shims as needed between new windowsill and the existing wood sill and check it for level.
Install shims as needed behind the installation holes in the jambs, making sure the frame is plumb, level and square as you go. The window is square when the two diagonal measurements are equal.
The replacement windows are held in place by stainless steel screws (provided) which fasten the side jambs of the new window to the existing wooden jamb of the old window frame. (Note: expose the mounting holes by opening the window or raising and lowering the sashes.) When fastening the screws, make sure to press the window unit against the outside stops to ensure a tight fit. Screws must installed flush to the vinyl jambs without overtightening for proper clearance of the balance mechanism.
Install the top and bottom screws on both sides of the window frame. Adjust the alignment screws at the center of the window jambs for straightness of the jambs using shims behind the screw pads as needed.
Install the center installation screws.
Using fiberglass batt insulation material fill the cavity between the side jambs and head of the window and the rough opening being careful not to overstuff this pocket.